Calico California, a travelers story

Mirage in the Mojave

A RELOCAT Traveler's Story about Calico, California

by Haily Zaki

We were weary as we traversed the scorching Mojave, on our way back from a whirlwind trip to Vegas and beyond. All around us the desert stretched as far as our eyes could see, barren and desolate. As the sun began its descent into the horizon, it bathed the land in a warm, amber light.
Suddenly, we saw a sign. “Ghost Town.” Without hesitation, we took the off ramp and found ourselves driving down a two-lane road heading toward the distant hills.

Nestled 3 miles off the main highway connecting the epicenter of casino gambling to the capital of glitz and glamour, Calico, California is an unexpected reminder of the Old West. Named for the colorful mountains behind it, Calico is one of the few original mining camps of the Old West. During its heyday it was a veritable hub replete with a population of 1,200, 22 saloons, a China Town and a “red light” district. Prospectors came from far and wide in search of the mountain’s mineral riches. Over 500 mines, including the legendary Silver King, Orient and Bismarck, were the engines that drove Calico’s great wealth between the years of 1881 and 1907. The Calico Mining District became one of the richest in the state, producing over $86 million in silver and $45 million in borax. As with other historic mineral miracles however, the bubble eventually burst. A sharp drop in the price of silver from $1.31 an ounce to 63 cents during the mid 1890’s and the end of borax mining in 1907 seemingly sealed the town’s fate.

But Calico refused to die. With the generous help of Mr. Walter Knott (of Knottsberry Farm fame) who worked the mine himself in 1910, today Calico is the busiest ghost town in the Mojave. Although its population has dwindled to 11, it is far from abandoned. Due to its convenient location off the only I-15, it almost always bustles with curious travelers and passersby. Fire swept through Calico in 2001 but thanks to the work of the San Bernardino County Office of Risk Management and San Diego architect Milford Wayne Donaldson, the ghost town was quick to recover. A grand re-opening and ribbon-cutting ceremony was held in October 2002.

Visitors to Calico can enjoy a variety of activities, ranging from panning for gold and touring the old mine to participating in an Old West gunfight. The main street is dotted with interesting little places such as the bottle shop and “mystery shack.” For the souvenir hunters, there is ample shopping for anything from leather goods to Indian-made jewelry and artifacts. For the weary of walking, a little train loops around northern Calico to provide an express tour. For the outdoorsman, camping and RV hookups are available in the narrow gully below Calico. The town also hosts seasonal festivities, such as the Spring Festival in honor of Mothers Day, the Heritage Fest in November/December as well as Halloween activities.

The most remarkable feature that Calico boasts, however, is its spectacular sunset. The harsh desert light of day softens to an amber hue. Standing on a conveniently located lookout point facing east with the mountains behind, the town below and the I-15 snaking its way south in the distance, one can almost imagine what it must have been like to live in that desolate land. It is a very peaceful sight, watching the mountain’s shadows grow until everything is dark.

If you have an overactive imagination, like I do, and go to Calico expecting a dilapidated ghost town with tumbleweed blowing across the dusty streets, you will be disappointed. However, despite the misnomer, Calico is definitely worth a visit. It is a refreshing return to wholesome, harmless entertainment (as well as a mini-lesson in California history), slightly off the beaten track, on the road between Vegas and LA, two of America’s arguably less wholesome destinations!

Calico is open daily all year long except Christmas Day. A brochure, town map, and event's schedule can be obtained by calling Calico toll free at 1-800-TO-CALICO

A special Thank You goes to Haily Zaki for bringing us this special tribute to Calico, California.